A beginner's guide to the Kerala sadya
May 20265 min read
The grand vegetarian feast served on a banana leaf, and where a good pickle, pappadam and payasam fit in.
A sadya is Kerala's grand vegetarian feast, traditionally served on a banana leaf during Onam and other celebrations. Dozens of dishes arrive in a precise order, and there is an etiquette to all of it. If you have never sat in front of one, here is the short version.
The leaf is a map
Everything has a place. Pickles, salt and the inji puli (ginger pickle) go top-left, the side dishes across the top, rice in the centre. You eat with your right hand, and the leaf is folded towards you at the end to say thank you.
Where pickle fits
A sadya leans sweet, sour and savoury all at once. A sharp lime or mango pickle and the sweet-sour inji puli are the high notes that cut through the richer curries and the ghee rice.
End on payasam
No sadya ends without payasam. Palada and semiya are the classics, served warm, sometimes two or three kinds in a row. It is the sweet full stop on the whole meal.
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